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What makes a great kebab? Ask ten people in Shanghai, and you might get ten different answers. Some swear by the smoky char of a lamb şiş. Others crave the spicy kick of Adana. A few just want a simple chicken kebab that’s juicy, not dry.

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Ask ten people in Turkey to name their favorite kebab, and at least five will say Adana. It’s spicy. It’s smoky. It’s hand-kneaded with care and grilled over charcoal on a flat metal skewer. And once you’ve had a proper Adana kebab, every other kebab seems… ordinary.

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In Turkey, bread is not a side dish. It’s not an afterthought. It’s not something you push to the edge of the plate. Bread is sacred. It’s the foundation of every meal, the tool for scooping meze, the sopper of sauces, the vessel for grilled meats. The

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There’s a moment, when you’ve lived in a city long enough, that it starts to feel like home. For me, that moment came again and again over the past 15 years in Shanghai – in the faces of regular customers, in the rhythm of the kitchen,

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